The Re-Cycle Shop

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Bicycle Repair Stand

Materials List:

All pipe is 3/4 inch gas pipe.



8 - 6 inch pieces of pipe

2 - 2 foot pieces of pipe

1 - 4 foot pipe

1 - 2 inch pipe

1 - 1 inch pipe

1 - 12 inch pipe

2 - 90 degree connectors

4 - T type connectors

4 - End caps

3 - Straight through connectors

1 - Pipe clamp

2 - Pieces of 2X2 wood

1 - T-nut and bolt

1 - Plastic tray (Optional)

Home Made Repair Stand


Want to do some of your own repairs, but don't have a way of holding your bike? Well here are


 some plans and photos of a very inexpensive bicycle repair stand you can build yourself. It does 


require some welding.


I have built a few of these for my various shops. They are simple and work great. 


A professional repair stand can cost over $400.00. These can be made for about $80.00 to 


$100.00 depending on the cost of the pipe.


Assembly Instructions:

Start by laying out the base. Screw two of the 6 inch pieces together using a straight through 


connector. Assemble two of these. Now connect these two assemblies using the T-type connector 


in the middle. The T-type connector should be pointing up. Now on each end, screw in another T-


type connector. In the end T connectors screw in two 6 inch pieces on one end of each T. On the 


other end, screw in a 2 foot piece on each side. Now use the 4 end caps on the 6 inch and 2 foot 


pieces. 



As you can see there are 8 welding points. These just need to be tacked to prevent the crossbar 


from moving when you clamp in the bike. Next you screw on a T-connector to the 4 foot piece of 


pipe.


Once you install the the 4 foot pipe onto the base, line up the T-connector so the threaded 


openings face the front and the back of the stand. Once you have it where you want, tack weld 


the T-connector to the pipe. This will prevent the stand from moving side to side when the bike is 


clamped in. Now you can assemble the bike clamp.



To assemble the bike clamp, screw in the 2" pipe to a straight connector and on the other end 


screw in the 12" pipe. Then screw on the pipe clamp to the 12" pipe. To hold the bike in the 


clamp, I took two pieces of 2X2 wood, clamped them in a vice and drilled a 1" hole in the middle 


between the two pieces. I then chipped the corners where the hole is to accomadate a varity of 


seat post sizes. Once this is assembled, screw the assembly into the T-connector on the 4 foot 


piece of pipe. Once every thing is lined up, tack weld the two pieces of pipe, the 2" and the 12" to 


the straight connector. I also tacked the pipe clamp, the threaded portion to the 12" pipe. Once I 


had this all assembled, I put a bike in the stand and the weight of the bike twisted the clamp 


assembly so the front wheel of the bike was on the ground. To prevent this from happening, have 


someone hold the bike where you are comfortable working on it. I then ground down the edge of 


the straight connector, the one facing the front of the stand, until it was flat. I then drilled a hole 


through the connector and the back of the 12" pipe. Put a small bolt in the hole and this will 


prevent the clamp assembly from moving and keep the bike where you want it.




Your stand is now complete. Simple to assemble and dis-assemble. For my stand I built a tool 


and parts tray that goes on the back of the T-connector on the 4 foot piece of pipe. This is 


optional.


For the tool and parts tray screw in a piece of 2" pipe into a 90 degree connector and a 6" piece of 


pipe into the other end of the 90 degree connector as shown above. This assembly should come 


straight back from the T- connector on the 4 foot piece of pipe. On the other end of the 6" piece of 


pipe, screw in another 90 degree connector so that it points straight up. Once you have this 


assembled, screw the assembly into the T-connector on the 4 foot piece of pipe. Once it is 


lined up where you want it, tack weld the connections as shown above. Now what I did to 


attach my tray, which I just used a plastic serving dish that you can buy at any dollar store. I 


used a threaded T-Nut, flattened it out in a vice and put in on the top of the 90 degree 


connector that faces up. I tacked the T-Nut into place, drilled a hole in the center of the tray 


and attach it with a bolt, this is done for easy install and removal.


For my stand I built a box to store and transport the stand. To build the box is extremely simple. I 


used 3 1X6" planks and one 1X8" plank. Cut the pieces to size, in my case it is 52 inches long. I 


then glued and screwed together a box. I added three hinges, a handle and to keep my box 


closed, I used an Ikea type fastener. You can use whatever you need to keep it closed. It works 


perfect 


This is a very simple yet very effective stand. The entire stand cost me around $60.00 and 


the box was about $20.00. You can leave everything raw or if you so choose or you can 


paint it all. If you do not weld, get everything lined up the way you want it and take it in to a 


welding shop and have them tack it together. If you have any questions at all about the 


stand, please don't hesitate to email me. I will be happy to help you understand the 


assembly and answer any questions.